Wine Review: Don’t shy away from Sicily’s ancient grape varieties

Let’s be very honest: You wouldn't buy a wine with a label that says “Chateau Gar Bahge, a wine made from some kind of grapes.” As normal consumers, we always gravitate toward things that are familiar, and the idea of plunking down hard-earned dollars for an unknown product is something that we instinctively try to avoid. However, with wine, often all that we have to go by is what is written on the label. And in some cases, that label isn't even in English – and thereby lies a paradox. It appears that Sicily is the home of many ancient varieties of grapevines whose names are almost unknown to the modern world but that do produce excellent wines, and because of this unfamiliarity, the wine may be avoided by the consumer. I have sampled a selection of wines made from grape varieties that the reader may not be familiar with but are worthy of attention.

Cantine Pellegrino 2021 Gazzerotta Nero d'Avola ($23). Please do not get turned off by the rather long and very Italian name of this very nice wine. I believe that Americans do not like words with the letter z in them, but do not judge this wine solely by its name, as there is more to this wine than a few letters on the label. Nero d'avola translates as the black grape from the city of Avola in Sicily. It is a grape variety that has often been considered to be a clone of the pinot noir, but the variety is known to have been around and enjoyed since ancient Roman times. The aroma of this wine presents noticeable amounts of black cherries and plums with the sensation of licorice, tobacco and freshly ground spice before trailing off to what can only be called a memorable finish. This red wine, due to its very affordable price, could serve as a perfect replacement for your current red wine favorite whose price may be rising past the ability for one to comfortably afford.

Stemmari 2022 Grillo ($20). Grillo is a white grape variety that proudly displays its Sicilian birthplace. The aroma is like a carnival show of fruit flavors with the most prominent being apple and lemon and as an extra, a distinct and obvious mineral element. The mineral carries through to the flavor where it is joined with an assortment of tropical fruits. The finish reprises the tropical fruits along with its signature minerality and a suggestion of honey. This is a white wine that makes its own statement and is the perfect accompaniment to shellfish and seafood of any description. As for me, I enjoyed this wine in the old traditional Italian way, with bread dipped in spiced olive oil as an appetizer. If you have never treated yourself to either, I suggest that you give it a try. You may even thank me.

Banfi La Lus Albarossa ($29). La Lus which translates as the light, from grapes grown in the Italian wine district of Piedmont and was made by Banfi, a producer that has been noted for the quality of its wines for many years. The Albarossa grape is a cross between the nebbiolo and barbera grapes, two of the most popular varieties grown in Piedmont, assuring that this wine will be something special. The aroma centers around red berries, cherries and plum with prominent notes of vanilla and licorice which follow through to the finish. For a red wine lover, this wine is a treat because it has all of the facets one seeks in a well-aged red wine and at an affordable price.

Donnafugata Bell’Assai Frappato Sicilia ($30). This is another Sicilian red wine that deserves mentioning as it is both enjoyable and affordable. A true child of Sicily, it features all of the signature flavors and aroma that are associated with the region's red wines. The aroma reflects summer berries – mainly blackberries, cranberries and blueberries – along with freshly ground spices. The flavor is a huge basket of red summer fruit and berries wrapped in the signature of spice, spice and more spice. This wine is a perfect introduction to the better red wines of Sicily.

Wine columnist Bennet Bodenstein can be reached at frojhe1@att.net.